RC8.2 Aluminum Rear Hub

RC8.2 Aluminum Rear Hub

Product Information

SKU: AV1801-KIT
Price: $60.00 $45.00
Quantity:

Product Overview

The AVID aluminum rear hub will be a must-have for racers running the popular Associated RC8.2 buggy. AVID designers incorporated adjustments that are not available on any other RC8.2 rear hub. First, the hubs feature 3.5mm thick carbon fiber mounting towers which can be flipped to have a total of 8 possible upper link locations for fine-tuning. Secondly, the rear hinge pin pivots on machined delrin inserts which can be flipped or changed to get 1 of 4 possible axle height locations in 1mm increments. The hubs are made of 7075 aluminum and then machined with the signature machined highlight.

Features

  • 7075 Aluminum Rear Hub
  • 3.5mm Carbon Fiber Composite Hub Towers: Special "tall"� hub towers offer 2 holes raised 1mm and 4mm above the kit positions to give racers new tuning options without re-drilling their kit towers. In addition, the hub towers are marked with an arrow and can be flipped to give an additional 4 upper link locations which are 2.8mm offset from the stock C and B holes that are offered.
  • Machined Delrin Hub Inserts (standard and mid) which allow adjustment of the outer pin height in 1mm increments. The hub inserts also act as a low friction wear surface rather than wearing on the aluminum hub itself.
  • Each set includes 2 x aluminum hubs, 4 x hub towers, 4 standard hub inserts, 4 mid hub inserts (not in photo), mounting hardware , and 1 AVID mini decal sheet.

Tips and Installation

  • Hub Tower Direction: When installing the carbon towers, if you look at the carbon piece near the two legs with the mounting holes you will see a little arrow shape, point the arrow on all the towers away from the car. The holes that will give you the shortest camber link possible is the standard C hole position and the other set of holes is the standard A hole position. (Remember that the holes in the standard hub go C, A, B with C being the shortest and B being the longest. The C holes was an after thought later down the road). If you flip the towers so the arrow is pointing towards the car you will have in between holes which will make the camber link 2.8mm longer.
  • Hub Tower Holes: As you can see the towers have a set of lower holes and upper holes. The lower holes are 1mm higher than the standard hub location so that you can maintain the same camber gain when using our 1mm offset inserts in the D plate. These locations are great to use as well even you are not though. The trend is adding more camber gain to the RC8.2 so the upper holes are 4mm higher than standard and you may use these holes to achieve the most camber gain possible without having to drill your shock tower with the new 0 hole that so many of the team drivers have been doing. We suggest you start with the lower holes first but then move up to the upper holes once you get the feel for them.
  • Delrin Inserts: The delrin inserts for the bottom of the hub are eccentric so you may flip them as well to get a different location. The hubs come with two sets of inserts (standard and mid) and we suggest you start with the standard inserts which replicate the stock hub before you venture off and create something more amazing. We weren't smart this time around with marking them so you will have to use your eyes on this one. The standard inserts have the hole very close to the edge of the delrin where the mid inserts are more towards the center. They are separated by 1mm but fairly noticeable. You will know you got it wrong if the pin doesn't just slip right into the other side.
  • Most Common Setup: We pretty much have been running the standard insert with the hinge pin closest to the axle (there is confusion on calling this the upper or lower location so using axle height makes the most sense to us). The arrow on the towers pointing away from the car, camber link in upper/inner hole, and the 1 hole on the tower. Remember that you will need to cut your camber link rod ends to shorten them for this, just shorten them by cutting the bevel at the ends off.

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